Feeding and Care for Baby Reptiles: Creating the Perfect Habitat for Breeding Reptiles

To truly grasp reptile breeding, one must first delve into their unique reproductive processes. Reptiles experience a fascinating life journey that begins at hatching, where they emerge small, delicate, and highly vulnerable. During these early stages, they develop fundamental survival instincts. Unlike their adult counterparts, baby reptiles have distinct needs, making it crucial to understand their care. Providing the right habitat is essential, including adjusting their diet, hydration, temperature, and humidity to suit each species. It's all about ensuring the right conditions so these young reptiles can thrive.There’s a wide array of reptile species that lay eggs, each with unique requirements to nurture them into healthy hatchlings. These young reptiles, often quite adorable, differ remarkably from their mature forms. Caring for them in these early months is vital, as it lays the foundation for their transition into strong, healthy adults. Therefore, setting up a well-prepared habitat and offering appropriate nutrition are key factors in raising a baby reptile into a stunning adult. Proper preparation is paramount when acquiring a reptile pet. Pet owners need to understand the varied care needed across different species, from the garter snake to the day gecko. Different species might be arboreal, fossorial, or semi-aquatic, each requiring tailored habitats. A firm grasp of these differences is crucial to creating an environment where baby reptiles can flourish.

Key Differences Between Caring for Baby and Adult Reptiles New reptile enthusiasts often fall into the trap of treating baby reptiles as miniature adults. However, hatchlings require far more frequent feedings, distinct temperature settings, and tailored humidity levels to thrive. Unlike adults, who may eat weekly, baby reptiles have accelerated growth rates, necessitating daily nourishment. Take, for instance, a leopard gecko; it can begin laying eggs at just over 10 months, emphasizing the importance of providing the energy needed to support rapid growth during this critical period.

Captive-bred baby reptiles are often housed in tubs until sold and rarely handled, requiring a gentle introduction to new environments. When moving them to their new homes, they need time to adapt, especially to their vivarium settings. It’s also important not to overwhelm them with frequent handling; just a couple of sessions each week are sufficient. Providing them with warm, short-duration baths and patiently allowing them to acclimate to their new surroundings will help ensure they grow into healthy, vibrant adults.

Understanding the nuances of reptile care is essential. With the right knowledge and dedication, you can nurture these fascinating creatures from hatchlings into majestic, fully grown reptiles, creating an enriching experience for both you and your scaly companion.

1.1. Types of Baby Reptiles

In general, baby reptiles fall into three different types: pet reptiles, those that are wild but not considered dangerous or protected, and the endangered, threatened, and poached-for-pets baby reptiles for whom so many captive breeding programs are set up. They can be snakes, lizards, turtles, and more. Snakes and certain lizards represent most of the baby reptiles kept as pets. Many of these babies grow up to spend their lives in glass aquaria or tubs in homes all around the world. Some have been in captivity for so long they are able to breed and reproduce in captivity. Most of the time, there is more than one species of baby reptile in a clutch of eggs or a litter of live-born babies. Different species have different needs. This makes it difficult for the pet owners' team to care for them because they do not become educated in the needs of the different species. As babies grow and mature, they need different environments and diets.

In general, there are three types of baby reptiles. Which one should you be interested in? Every potential reptile owner should think seriously about their “species prejudice.” Some species are shy, some are best for experienced reptile keepers, while other species are common because they are more entertaining or connect with people better. Match your interest to your daily life. For example, if you want a quiet, to-herself snake, don’t buy a baby boa. Some snakes get 12 feet long, and some snakes can live only on rodents. Some snakes can bite; most can spread salmonella. If you are not going to remember everything you are supposed to know to care for a baby reptile, think of looking at another animal instead. We are here to help reptiles. Being a responsible owner means you know each species of reptile you would like to buy. Always look up which care sheet is best for them to know if they can have a peaceful habitat, suitable food to eat, and cleaning. You must have the appropriate habitat needed for them to thrive in captivity. Make sure you have everything ready before you bring the reptile home.

2. Feeding Baby Reptiles

When ownership of the reptiles is transferred to a buyer, providing information on the current diet of baby reptiles allows the new owner to either continue with an established diet or decide on a new one. Venomous reptile breeders should also be aware that the quick feeding response of a baby reptile who has a good food response to a strong or scented food item can lead to a reckless strike and bite full of venom. A buyer should be warned not to try to hand-feed a baby snake inside a small plastic container, as an immediate bite sometimes occurs. During their juvenile and adult life stages, apparently healthy reptiles may need to be force-fed or assist-fed. Regular series of targets on temperature and humidity. Insects, fruits, and other types of food items: insects are commonly used to feed baby lizards and snakes. Fruit-eating baby reptiles can have their fruits dusted with vitamin or calcium powder before feeding. Some baby snakes do well on a specialized diet of pinkie mice that have been soaked in a vitamin and mineral solution. Marketed dog food for nursing puppies meets the food protein and energy requirements of baby Burmese pythons. Baby reptiles need to eat a variety of food in order to provide an adequate balanced diet that is essential for both growth and good health. The proper portion of food also needs to be offered in a way that a species of baby reptile will recognize it as food. Baby reptiles are usually good adapters to new foods and will later eat any appropriate food item portion that is offered at a proper time. Offered food must be either all eaten each time or taken away if it is not eaten in a few minutes. Over time, unnecessary food items should be offered. The best rearing results usually occur when baby reptiles can recognize food and the feeding area is clean and free of uneaten food items. A space away from the heated areas should be provided as a water soak at least once each day for baby tortoises so they can have constant water to either soak or drink. Baby reptiles of different species and ages are usually offered food many times a week, but the amount often depends on the age and species. The frequency and amount of feedings for babies are usually shown in a chart of reptile development. Signs of not feeding enough: underfeeding a baby reptile can cause it to be slow because it does not receive the food energy needed to develop and grow. A sign of underfeeding a baby reptile is its failure to gain weight or increase in size over a period of several months. A look that shows less growth. Signs of someone may be overfeeding: overfeeding occurs when trying so hard to feed growing baby reptiles that they are placed in a stomach. Nutritional supplements: a vitamin or mineral supplement can be dusted onto a baby reptile's food items, or the baby reptile can be given the supplement through a hand-feeding process. However, many baby reptiles grow well without any additional supplements other than what they eat. The vitamin and mineral content of the food that is given to a baby reptile either daily or several times a week has summarized most of the supplements needed by most baby tortoises. Medium-warm baby reptile belly skin, which touches a food surface, assures a good feeding response at a proper feeding temperature. The same favorite food items they prefer to feed are often soon recognized by baby reptiles.

2.1. Dietary Requirements

Baby reptiles, just like their human and mammalian counterparts, have fairly specific dietary requirements as they grow. Because of this, they need a changing balance of nutrients in order to support their size and growth rates. Keep in mind that this balance is very different depending on the species, so you first need to determine the species of your reptiles to understand their dietary requirements due to the rarity or poor minerals stored in their bodies. Macronutrients are essential for the development of the strong, resilient reptile bodies they will have as adults, and any nutritional deficiencies can cause bone and organ issues as they grow. In addition, the degradation of some vitamins can trigger riboflavin, a common condition in juvenile reptiles; some minerals can also cause blindness or shrinkage of the organs. All of this can make it difficult for your pet to get back on its feet if it is neglected, so feeding it cheap, fast foods can affect their lifespan, not just their growth and overall health.

For baby reptiles to grow, they need energy, protein, and fat, as well as vitamins and minerals to help them develop short bone building blocks efficiently. They also need amino acids, fatty acids, and starches that are gradually converted and stored in their bodies. All of this is to ensure that they can successfully detoxify and develop healthy organs into larger reptiles, so providing all of these diet types is important for all newborn reptiles. Macronutrients, when consumed or absorbed by the animal, are broken down in the intestine to form smaller protein parts, amino acids, which are then reassembled by a specific enzyme process in the lining of the intestines where the body of the animal is actually absorbed.

3. Housing and Habitat Design

Reptiles in general should be housed in an environment that suits their needs. Ongoing assessments by the caretaker will help determine the appropriateness of the setup. The most important part of creating an enclosure for a baby reptile is safety. You should not assume that your reptile will retain the information even of basic needs necessary for their own life! Please keep this in mind as you design your habitat. Baby reptile housing should be unique per the reptiles chosen and reflect the animal selected, their behavior, dietary needs, possible size, and what they may need in the future. Select enclosures with proper sources of lid security or materials with the reptile's size in mind to avoid accidental complete disassembly. Substrate should be loose enough for them to dig in. Realistic décor and hiding spots help the reptile hide in the beginnings of stress in a new environment. Do not add wire or wood soaking/manipulation nests or décor, or keep sticks unsecured. The goal is to create a secure and safe place for the baby to live. You can add tracking devices to help find escaped reptiles. Daily searches will keep tabs on animal health, cleanliness, and enclosure security regarding how the animals are doing and acting. This is critical for noting growth and eating habits. You need to create a less stressful environment that will encourage their health and growth, not placing them in any compromised state anytime they interact with you or enter the tank. A clean environment promotes a healthy animal and increases growth rates. Hazards such as resting babies in poor bath environments, stressful living conditions, or shared homes with aggressive or significantly larger animals are all excellent examples of habitats not appropriate for young reptiles.

Designing the perfect environment for any baby reptile species is essentially the same. The goal is to provide a safe environment for each baby reptile where the risk of injury and death is less probable than in an unsafe environment. Mimic a natural environment that is both large enough to encourage exercise and considerately enriched to encourage naturalistic behaviors. There are several critical pieces to the perfect habitat for a baby reptile: the enclosure type, habitat decor, equipment desired, and other needed supplies.

Mimic a natural environment as accurately as possible. For most baby reptiles, a dry habitat with a water source works best for avoiding an excessively raised humidity environment. Nesting substrate is set in the lay bin. The rest of the enclosure may be covered with aspen or reptile carpet. In simple terms, the habitat should be decorated to resemble your baby's natural environment. Please do not add suitably sized prey animals or other adult reptiles to your habitats, pretending the baby reptiles must "hunt" for their food. The light and heat source is to be set over a basking area. Install a thermometer at each end of the tank to monitor the temperatures where your baby reptiles gather to regulate their body temperature. The space between the floor over the bottom of your habitat and the light fixture over the basking area must be sufficient to not heat up to dangerous, skin-burning temperatures. Baby reptiles need a warm side and a cooler side to regulate their body temperature. The basking temperature and the cooler side habitat temperature may differ between species. A constant and low humidity level is best for most baby reptiles. The supply of a water source and access to the water bowl is of high importance. Keep your water and all receptacles clean and sanitary to encourage clean reptiles to drink regularly. Mental forms of exercise and stress relief can be greatly improved by access to hiding places when the reptile needs to escape a stressor.

Creating the Perfect Habitat

3.1. Temperature and Humidity Requirements

The suitable temperature for baby reptiles can vary greatly by species and can be difficult to keep track of in a large collection. The ideal enclosure should allow 'gradient heating,' or the creation of a terrarium that is hotter on one side than on the other, to allow the animal to self-regulate heat. Using heating methods from below, you can create a warmer area that the baby reptile will go to when it wants to warm up, and a cooler area when it feels too warm. This can be adequately monitored with temperature 'guns' that are quickly gaining in popularity, or separate digital heat and cool monitors. Setting one end to approximately 85-88°F seems to work well for smaller starter cages, while the cool end can be set at 78-80°F.

Maintaining proper humidity is crucial for your reptile's hydration and health. Ensuring that you maintain humidity at the right level is equally important. If your reptile is too dry, it can have trouble shedding, which can lead to a severe case of retained eyes or skin as a baby. In some instances, it can cause nose rub, limb kinks, and many other issues. Alternatively, if their homes stay too wet, you could have a young reptile with developed respiratory issues that might not be outwardly visible. Grassland and desert species can develop strange breathing and then instantly die at a few months of age. This tends to happen mostly in the case of 'damp grassland' species. To keep excess humidity from being in a cage, use a water bowl that has the ability to mist the place often, or simply mist it every time you want it to be filled – preferably every day. Using water bowls that are both large and wide can help eliminate excess water and reduce the time it takes to warm it. For customers who utilize the misting system, we also suggest a drainage device to assist in preventing flooding.Temperature and Humidity Control Temperature controls play critical roles in the husbandry of each group or species of reptiles. Various reptiles like to be kept at different stable temperatures and are predisposed to react differently at given temperatures. This entails the necessity to research the fundamental temperatures for a given species. For baby reptiles, the warm and hot side temperatures are either the same or only slightly different. The cool side temperatures should drop to at least 15°C below the warm and hot side temperatures during the night, and during the day, be 5° or more lower than the preferred basking temperatures. Humidity level is an often-overlooked husbandry aspect compared to temperature control. Each geographic origin group and each species have different humidity requirements, determined by the natural habitat of the reptile. The combination of predators, prey, temperature, humidity, and other environmental components are interconnected and must all be provided if a healthy, non-stressed reptile is to be kept. Healthy reptiles have a preferred stable daytime temperature range as well as a nighttime temperature range. The natural basking spot acts as the preferred temperature range. Proper standard terrariums have two spots with perfect temperature ranges, a warm spot and a cooler spot. These are deliberate imitations of basking and non-active times. The light heat and heat emitted from the basking spot provide for a change in temperature between the cold side of the tank and the warm side of the tank. The night light time is also a cool time. In this situation, the ability to lower the nighttime tank temperature helps to ensure an accurate winter hibernation per season for turtles. It could also improve bacterial and virus care. A 10°F drop in night temperature throughout the winter months is ideal. If the room where your tank is placed rises over 80°F, reducing tank heat at night is especially vital.

3.2. Enclosure Size and Substrate Selection

Enclosure size depends on the species, as does the texture of the substrate. Younger, smaller snakes require less horizontal space than more arboreal species. Still, you want to make sure that the enclosure is big enough for the animal to move and explore but still have security for feeding and their energy levels. There should be enough floor space for a hide, a temperate side, and a cool side with water available at all times. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the enclosure allows the snake to stretch comfortably inside. Whatever you choose, make sure the substrate cannot be ingested, is free from mites, and free of contamination.

The substrate in the housing should be able to retain moisture and offer options to facilitate natural instinct, such as burrowing, and it should be free of mites. Each type of substrate has its own set of benefits and downfalls, so let’s go over some common types. Most keepers seem to find success with coconut fiber or coconut husks. It’s a cheap and readily available source that can come compacted in a brick or already loose. It’s also great for young snakes, as they cannot ingest it. Because of the water retention, it’s a great source for those animals that require high humidity needs. Paper towel is the cheapest and easy to clean. If you’re raising multiple species, this could be the best option for you. But just like the coconut fiber, it doesn’t really allow for natural behaviors. With that said, newspaper, paper, or any type of recycled paper substrate should be avoided. For the arboreal species, they will need a soft and moist moss, and you won’t be able to spot clean as well as you would with a paper towel or hard substrates. For adult snakes, some use cypress or a cypress mix. It might also work well with a good provider of young snakes, as it could be good for the well-being of the young snake. Horticultural sand or play sand is nice because of its consistency and affordability, but your animal could eat it, so supervision would be necessary.

Enclosure Size and Setup

The size and setup of an enclosure are going to vary greatly based on the type and size of the reptiles that an individual baby is from. Enclosure size should be the same as you would provide for a non-breeding adult animal of the same type. It is important to provide the baby with the appropriate space for functioning naturally, including exercise, relocation, and a basking site. Be sure to research how much space that species prefers and use this size as a base, taking into consideration how quickly a baby may grow, needing more space for natural activities as they grow. Be aware that snakes are more accomplished escape artists than adults, so a well-fitting secure enclosure is important.

Though space requirements between species do differ, baby reptiles (even snakes) are usually best started in some kind of a clear, escape-proof cage of suitable size for their species. The enclosures of an arboreal or semi-arboreal species of baby breed should be long x wide + tall = size, not the inverse if at all possible. To provide a defensible answer, we prefer to ensure that each baby has enough usable volume to establish themselves amongst their siblings and have a good selection of basking sites, shade, hide spots, and substrate depth. This means a reliable minimum size of 30 gallons or larger for most reptile species. If nothing else, a little extra space on the floor of the cage can't hurt at all.

- Egg Incubation : For species that lay eggs, ensure a proper incubator with controlled temperature and humidity. Monitor eggs regularly for signs of mold or rot.

- Handling : Limit handling baby reptiles, especially in the first few weeks, to reduce stress.

4 . Breeding Reptiles: Techniques and Considerations

Evidence of Breeding
Knowing when to pair animals begins with understanding their reproductive behaviors and cycles. Different methods of breeding are employed for various reptile species. These tactics can include simply introducing or placing a male and female of a species together, which is more commonly employed with species that are difficult to sex or determine. This is more common in smaller geckos, turtle, and tortoise species; however, it is not necessary for snakes and lizards. Other species require a winter or pre-laying cooling period to initiate breeding activity, while other species use lighting techniques to initiate a breeding response. One lizard may require a male-to-female ratio closer to that of four to one for a successful breeding outcome, while another species can only be bred using a drastically different pair ratio of one male and several females. Knowing the biology and behaviors of the species you are breeding, as well as which methods of breeding are generally accepted as the most successful, will play an important role in the development of a successful breeding colony.
Ethical Considerations
Ethical considerations also need to be explored prior to initiating a breeding program. Proper care not only for the breeding-age adults but also for the offspring is necessary. This often includes a lifetime commitment if animals are unable to be sold or given away. Additionally, the living conditions of the breeding animals should be taken into consideration, as stressors like noise and other people or animals moving around the setup may prevent the animals from breeding. These less tangible aspects of starting a breeding project should not be taken lightly or underestimated. Successful breeding programs go far beyond knowing a male and female of a species, and it starts with creating the proper environment to entice the male and female to breed. Both male and female snakes and lizards need to be healthy, as they need properly functioning organs, correct ratios of hormones, and optimal health to be able to breed successfully. Good body condition and size should also be taken into consideration, as animals that are overweight or underweight may be unable to breed. Breeding also requires an exceptional amount of energy, which can take its toll on the animals' enclosures and behaviors. A healthy environment should include optimal temperature fluctuations and seasonal variations, as well as humidity and lighting. In the wild, the female snake or lizard generally drives the need to breed and raise healthy and viable offspring. If the female is of optimal breeding age and is on the correct regimen but cannot lay her eggs or cannot pass one egg, or if the clutch is bad once the eggs are laid, then there might be some issues holding back the ability to breed the female properly. The males should be healthy and non-aggressive; some owners will have to buy new or recruited males to help mix the gene pool if the female is healthy and still of proper breeding age.

Reptiles represent a group of animals that are known for their tough appearance and incredible ability to thrive in harsh environmental conditions. As a reptile keeper, you can actually go one step further and engage in reptile breeding. But this is an undertaking that can often end up taking on a life of its own, and over time, many hobbyists will find themselves turning into full-time reptile breeders. To be even marginally successful in breeding reptiles, there are some rather unique challenges that the hobbyist must be ready to face.

To prepare for a new arrival of hatchlings, begin with the choice of breeding pairs. Good breeders can cost a lot of money, but it’s usually worth it in the end. The adults that you choose to breed should be completely healthy and free of any genetic defects. Reproductive signs in each sex of reptiles are rather diverse and start months prior to mating. You will need to research the remainder relevant to your specific reptile species to know what the proper incubation cycle is. Temperature and humidity are crucial for optimal breeding. Nothing beats getting to know the specific needs and characteristics of your reptile. Some pairs are keen on seeking just the correct breeding site, while others typically keep an eye out for their own digs. Microclimates are important along with the breeding period. Proper maintenance is essential. You will need to make sure that the temperature, humidity, and lighting are precise all the time. When a pair is especially vigorous, you should also keep a close eye on their interactions to avoid any issues. Feeding a suitable and healthy diet is another factor in successful growth. It is definitely recommended that certain kinds of reptiles are fed a specific diet prior to breeding, including certain varieties. Prior to breeding, a more nutritious diet should be given to feeder lizards, crickets, worms, and other food sources to prepare for the hatchlings. Afterward, it consists of a high-insect diet that is low in both fat and protein, containing various insects. Monitoring is crucial. Because knowledge can be precisely determined from several years of understanding your reptiles, it is important to consider any observations that have been utilized, as well as a record of your efforts to find out when a response is standard and when it is not. Such types of handling are also related to the supplements, feeding, water, and lighting as a result of adult offspring. Evolved feeding of offspring is important. If all goes well and eggs can be retrieved, it takes about three infusion steps before the babies hatch in order to prepare them for laying. By taking careful readings of the eggs with a thermo-hydrometer at least several times each day, maintaining a stable environment is also essential. It is vital that the setup is strong and vibrant to suit any adjustments that might be required in order to breed the babies. Care of hatchlings is crucial. Once young reptiles continue to grow, they invariably require explicit advice on how to care for them when they hatch and when to change to weekly feedings with their progeny. Pets are as accessible as other animal producers, but no worse. As such, make sure your passion blends into your comprehensive obligation as an accountable breeder and that you are adhering to regulations and other local laws.

5. Health and Wellness Checks for Baby Reptiles

'Sick Baby Reptiles' is a whole article in itself. By keeping a close watch on your baby reptiles, you can catch any potential problems early in their disease stage. Our practice is to go through every shed, right about the time you expect them to start shedding their eggs. If there are known issues in the bloodline of your adult reptiles, then monitor for those particular problems as well. In small baby reptiles, the major cause of death is related to metabolic disorders, followed by infections that can lead to more metabolic disorders. Catching these things early either prevents their occurrence in the first place or makes it possible for you to address them before it's too late to recover.

Familiarize yourself with what is 'normal' for your baby reptiles. Pay attention to their normal behavior and appearance. You can learn a lot about these little creatures when you're feeding them. In the wild, the sick, injured, and weak are driven away from food. Do your normal wellness screening as your reptiles grow. Normal signs and symptoms in baby reptiles (as with human babies, or any babies for that matter) that should draw your attention to any potential problems are outlined on each species' page. It's also helpful to know a little about your reptile's vital signs, which include heart rate, respiratory rate, normal body temperatures, and normal behavior. In the case of baby reptiles in general, you're usually looking at the best indicator of ongoing health being their feeding habits and their weight gains (or losses for babies that start out with healthy weights). As always, taking your little ones for routine health and wellness checks is the best practice, if it can be afforded. Routine checks are not infallible, but at least some potential problems can be caught early on or prevented. In the case of baby reptiles, waiting less than 7 days to consult with a vet regarding any potential problem is a dangerous game to play, especially if the baby is below their healthy hatch weight. It may be too late by the time a whole week has gone by. In addition, the majority of baby reptiles that we lose, we lose to over-parasitization as a result of incorrect treatment. Many of the common baby reptile veterinarians simply do not have the experience to diagnose (or treat) a parasite problem with baby reptiles. Creating and following a daily routine of health and wellness assessments is what separates the professional and responsible reptile owners from those who make things worse, rather than better.

5.1. Signs of Common Health Issues

For animals that cannot vocalize their pain or discomfort, recognizing the signs of health issues is vital. In the case of reptiles, that might include a respiratory infection, metabolic bone disease due to malnutrition coupled with growth, an injury or fracture, or other possible health issues. Catching them early and minimizing the damage they can cause will help the reptile recover and live a healthy life. Respiratory infections can cause a wide range of symptoms. These can include open-mouth breathing to help increase air intake, fluid or mucus visibly exiting the nose or mouth, a build-up of mucus in the mouth and throat that might prompt coughing or gaping, and lack of interest in food.

As the name suggests, metabolic bone disease is caused by an imbalance of calcium, phosphate, and vitamin D. The severity and visible symptoms will depend on the age of the animal but may include fragile bones that fracture easily, frequently bowed limbs or spine, swollen limbs, a decreased appetite, muscle twitching or tremors, a lumpy head, seizures, and generalized weakness associated with pain in the bones. Other common signs of discomfort or health issues in reptiles can include excessive hiding, pacing inside the enclosure, trying to burrow or escape, lethargy, laying in a strange position, prolonged skin patches that never return to the natural coloration or adaptive capabilities, intermittent or continued loss of appetite even when the prey offered is novel, reduced reaction to stimuli, odd body swellings or growths, or fluid retention. If any of these symptoms are seen, veterinary assistance should be sought promptly.

6. Major factors in the health and well being of captive reptiles

Four popular captive reptile species :

BEARDED DRAGONS Our choice for a first reptile. They don't grow so large that you cannot find a commercially available cage. They are docile and non-aggressive.
Size	To about 16" - 18"
Temperament	Non aggressive, very docile.
Cage	A 50 gallon or larger terrarium for each animal. They do some climbing (preferably at least 2 feet tall). Use a soil/sand or orchid bark substrate. Landscape with select driftwood, branches, rocks, clumps of damp moss, and artificial plants.
Lighting	Full spectrum lighting/U.V.radiation is needed for long term maintenance of Bearded Dragons. See Zoo Med Reptisun 5.0 or PowerSun UV
Heat	Incandescent light bulb with a reflector situated over one side of enclosure should help provide the proper moderate daytime heat gradient. Also use an Under-tank heater and a thermometer.
Humidity	Bearded Dragons do not require a lot of humidity, although warmth is essential.
Water	Provide a shallow pan of fresh water for drinking. They particularly like to climb on a low branch which dips into the dish at one end where they can walk the limb to the dish and lean down to drink. Be sure to change the water frequently and wash the bowls thoroughly to prevent bacterial contamination. Also mist enclosure periodically.
Diet	Nutrient fed and vitamin/calcium coated crickets, mealworms, butterworms, earthworms, and other small insects. Supplement with romaine lettuce or other leafy green vegetables to his taste. Especially like dandelion flowers. Supplement with Reptvite.
Sexing	Hard to sex without professional help
Hardiness	Usually does well in captivity and are a good, docile pet for adolescents or adults.

LEOPARD GECKO/FATTAIL GECKO Eublepharus macularis See also THE LEOPARD GECKO MANUAL Philippe de Vosjoli, Brian Viets, Ron Tremper, Roger Klingenberg, DVM
Size	Up to 9"
Temperament/Handling	Good dispositions, easily tamed. Soft, delicate skin that should be handled with care. When grabbed or held by the tail, the tail will fall off. Males are incompatible-keep separate.
Cage	Leopard geckos are terrestrial lizards and should be housed in long, shallow enclosures. Minimum 10 gallon terrarium for 1 pair of adults or sub-adults. To add more females, a 20 gallon or larger set up is needed. Choice of substrate is often dictated by convenience or aesthetics. Use of a calcium sand substrate is fine, but we recommend that they not be fed on this substrate, as eating it can lead to sand impaction. Landscape and create shelters and basking areas with select rocks, slate, cholla wood, driftwood, hollow logs, cork bark slabs, and if desired, live or artificial desert type plants.
Lighting	Nocturnal reptiles that prefer to hide during the day. In the wild, leopard geckos hunt at dawn and dusk and probably get some UVB exposure during that time of day Full spectrum lighting/U.V.radiation or any form of supplemental lighting is not absolutely necessary for raising or maintaining Leopard Geckos in captivity, so long as they are fed gut-loaded insects which contain calcium supplements. Incandescent lights can be used as a heat source.
Heat	Under tank reptile heating pads and hot rocks will provide daytime bottom surface heat. Incandescent light bulbs with reflectors situated over select basking areas will provide the proper daytime heat gradient. Use a thermometer.
Temperature/ Humidity	Day 82-90 degree F gradient, night 75-80 degree F. Moisten the substrate under favored resting shelters to provide humidity. To facilitate and promote proper skin shedding, provide a separate hide box or humidity chamber (such as a hollow log) with moistened (not soaking wet) spagnum moss in the chamber. Recommended humidity of the environment should be between 40-60 percent.
Water	Provide a small crock with fresh water for drinking purposes at all times and clean it frequently with anti-bacterial cleaners to prevent bacterial contamination.
Diet	Insectivores. Invertebrate prey items including nutrient fed and vitamin/calcium coated crickets, mealworms, butterworms, jumbo mealworms and baby mice.
Sexing	Males have preanal pores and hemipenal bulges.
Hardiness	Very hardy, docile and easily maintained in captivity. A good first reptile for a supervised child

PANTHER CHAMELEON/OTHER CHAMELEONS
Size (Panther: Chameleo Pardalis)	Larger males up to 20", females to about 12".
Temperament	Slow-moving gentle giants. Normally non-aggressive except males, which should not be housed together or within sight of each other.
Cage	A minimum 55 gallon or preferably a custom built wood frame mesh enclosure at least 2'w x 4'h x 2'l or larger can house a pair or trio of Panthers. It is NOT a good idea to keep males together. Glass enclosures often cause stress as chameleons see their reflection and misinterpret it as another of the same species in their territory. No substrate -- bare bottom.
Lighting	Unfiltered natural sunlight is best for synthesizing Vitamin D-3 and calcium absorption. However full spectrum lighting/U.V. radiation is needed. Full spectrum bulbs can be used in conjunction with black lights for maximum benefits.
Heat	Incandescent light bulbs with reflectors situated over select basking areas will provide the proper daytime heat gradient. Night time heat can be provided by either red light bulbs or room heaters.
Temperature/ Humidity	General temperature 80-90 degree F day, 70-78 degree F night. Basking temperatures under heat lamps 90-95 degree F. Humidity is provided by drip system, water dishes with bubblers, and daily misting of enclosure.
Water	Provide various bubbling water dishes, a drip system and frequent (daily) misting of enclosure. It is very difficult to get many species of chameleons to drink from a watering apparatus. It is often beneficial to actually carry the chameleon to the shower in a portable wire enclosure such as a bird cage, and gently shower the environment (including the pet). This allows water droplets to collect on the helmet and nose-bridge and to trickle into his opened mouth as it often does in his native habitat. Initially, imports should be hydrated using a strong electrolyte solution via pipette for at least the first few days.
Diet	Nutrient fed and vitamin/calcium coated crickets, jumbo mealworms, butterworms, grasshoppers, flies, roaches and occasionally pink or fuzzy mice. Smaller chameleons can often be fed by placing insects inside a small ball-shaped fish bowl in their habitat. Crickets cannot climb out of the bowl, but the chameleon can send his sticky tongue into the bowl to snap them up.
Sexing	Males larger, more colorful and with enlarged helmet and hemipenal bulges.
Hardiness	Healthy specimens are very hardy once acclimated. However many imports come in heavily dehydrated, stressed and have internal parasites. Not for beginners.

SAILFIN DRAGONS Hydrosaurus amboinensis See also GREEN WATER DRAGONS, SAILFIN LIZARDS & BASILISKS by Philippe de Vosjoli
Size	Average size 3', Large males up to 4'.
Temperament	Initially very nervous, panic prone, with time most individuals will settle down.
Cage	Babies and smaller juveniles can be housed in a minimum 30 gallon or larger sized terrarium. Landscape and create shelters and basking areas with select rocks, driftwood, hollow logs, cork bark slabs and sturdy nonpoisonous or artificial plants. Adults require a large wire enclosure set up in a similar manner.
Lighting	Full spectrum lighting/U.V. radiation is needed for long term maintenance of Sailfins, and especially critical for rearing babies and juveniles.
Heat	Under tank reptile heating pads placed under both water and land section will provide 24 hour bottom surface and water heat. Incandescent light bulbs with reflectors situated over select basking areas will provide the proper daytime heat gradient.
Temperature/ Humidity	Day 76-88 degree F gradient, night 70-75 degree F. Moderate humidity is provided by large water section and frequent misting of enclosure. Use a temp/humidity indicator.
Water	Provide a large (1/4-1/2) enclosure water section for drinking, soaking and defecation. Clean frequently with anti-bacterial cleaners to prevent bacterial contamination.
Diet	Nutrient fed and vitamin/calcium coated crickets, butterworms, mealworms, earthworms, baby mice, goldfish and various vitamin/calcium coated leafy vegetables and sweet fruits. Babies have very high calcium requirements, and adults can suffer from bone deformations and other problems if fed diets inadequate in absorbable calcium/phosphorous or Vitamin D3.
Sexing	Adult males have large sails on back and tail, also femoral pores. Juveniles must be probe sexed.
Hardiness	Fairly delicate in captivity. Injury prone due to smashing into sides of terrarium, frequently develops mouth rot, and is usually heavily parasite infested. Must be treated for internal parasites. Babies and juveniles can easily be acclimated if properly set up and maintained. Not for beginners.

References:

Lohmiller, J. J., Swing, S. P., & Hanson, M. M., 2020. Reproduction and breeding. The laboratory rat. [HTML]

Cooper, E.B., Bonnet, T., Osmond, H., Cockburn, A. and Kruuk, L.E., 2020. Do the ages of parents or helpers affect offspring fitness in a cooperatively breeding bird?. Journal of Evolutionary Biology, 33(12), pp.1735-1748. wiley.com

Genzer, S.C., Flietstra, T., Coleman-McCray, J.D., Tansey, C., Welch, S.R. and Spengler, J.R., 2023. Effect of Parental Age, Parity, and Pairing Approach on Reproduction in Strain 13/N Guinea Pigs (Cavia porcellus). Animals, 13(5), p.895. mdpi.com

Genovart, M., Klementisová, K., Oro, D., Fernández-López, P., Bertolero, A. and Bartumeus, F., 2022. Inferring the age of breeders from easily measurable variables. Scientific Reports, 12(1), p.15851. nature.com

Badger, J.J., Bowen, W.D., den Heyer, C.E. and Breed, G.A., 2023. Large offspring have enhanced lifetime reproductive success: Long‐term carry‐over effects of weaning size in gray seals (Halichoerus grypus). Ecology and Evolution, 13(6), p.e10095. wiley.com