Exploring Tools and Favorite Reptiles for Pet Keeping
Keeping reptiles is a popular hobby, and animals such as snakes, lizards, turtles, and tortoises are very popular pets. This text was written as a guide to help those new to the hobby. It concentrates on several areas all pet keepers should understand thoroughly. First, the public typically has very little knowledge of reptiles. This leads to sales of incompatible species and abuse and neglect through misunderstanding. Consequently, it is in the best interest of researchers and professionals to aid these new reptile owners in any way possible. Second, novice and experienced keepers alike become frustrated when sales personnel give very little information on reptiles. They will leave stores and obtain their information elsewhere, often through internet sources. This can continue the beat-down of old world ideas pet stores have been hard-pressed to change and effectively discredit the mainstream pet industry in the eye of a rather large hobbyist community. Maintaining and managing quality research animals or even the pet store's wet stock can be hard while keeping these resentful keepers from sharing their experiences with others interested in getting into the hobby.
1.1. Purpose of the Guide
1.1 Purpose
When diving into the different options provided in the pet reptile world, there are so many distinct species and groups of reptiles offered for pet keeping. Acquiring a detailed explanation of the tools that go into keeping them and the different types can be a daunting task and where to get started? The goal of the chosen guide is to provide information and insight into the realm of reptile pet care options - especially for those looking to get their first pet reptile.
This informational guide is split into two sections. 1) Exploring essential tools and equipment that go into keeping pet reptiles in an artificial environment and how to perform maintenance with them. 2) Reviewing a number of different species of pets available and what is known about their care and maintenance that goes into them as pets for those interested in keeping reptiles. The overall purpose of the chosen guide is to explore information and provide insight into what keeping different types of reptiles as pets looks like and consists of. This, in total, combined with the equipment, will give the aspiring pet reptile keeper potential ideas of what they are looking for.
1.2. Scope and Objectives
Guide Scope
We are writing this guide for those hoping to get into pet keeping, but don't have the time to do the research it takes. There are many variables and pets to explore that the guide will not touch on, but we have compiled a list of popular and interesting reptiles to look into further if desired.
Objectives of This Guide
If you are considering getting a reptile for a pet for the first time, this is the guide for you. This guide serves to introduce you to the procedure of pet keeping, the tools you will need to invest in, and the pitfalls you may want to avoid. The guide will also introduce you to three reptiles that are not only popular as pets, but are also our picks for most interesting and rewarding. We hope to be your starting point while you continue research for yourself, not your end-all authority on the subject.
2. Essential Tools for Reptile Keeping
Housing must meet the needs of the particular species of reptile you want to keep. This will include the size and structure of the habitat, as well as the type of environmental controls and technologies included. Appropriate enclosures are also essential to keep pets healthy. Heating is important for reptiles. They are cold-blooded animals and they need heat from the environment to be warm enough so they can digest their food. Reptiles usually need 12 hours of light a day to stay healthy. This light can come through a window or it can be artificial light.
Decor, substrate, and bedding can be added to reptile habitats because they help pets feel more at home and give the habitat a more natural look. Feeding and watering should also be considered entertainment for your pet reptile. Shallow dishes can be used for feeding and watering containers. Make sure the dishes are placed so they will not tip over and are easy to clean. Food should be small enough and shallow enough for your pet to get in and out of easily. They also need to be heavy enough so the pet will not tip it over and spill everything. These dishes should be easy to clean and not break or crack when they are being washed. Veggies and fruits need to be picked out and thrown away about twice a week. They will rot and then they can make your pet sick. Vitamins and minerals are usually sprinkled on top of food. Some food should be food that insects ate. Branches and rocks can be added to reptile arenas to provide more surface to walk on. Make sure all the branches and rocks are clean. You can use soap and water, then dry them off and put them in the habitat. Make sure they are safe. Remember, they can fall and hurt your pet. You should also tell the pet store the kind of pet you have because some things have chemicals on them that can be bad for your pet. Some pet people put fake plants with the real plants. Disk-shaped hides are simple and can be used to give your pet somewhere to hide. This will distract your pet snakes or lizards, such as bearded dragons, from attempting to escape when you remove the upper covers of their cages. In reality, shelter is very important; hiding reduces stress and makes your animal (lizard, gecko, or snake) feel safe, encouraging them to eat and bask more readily. It is essential to apply good cleaning and hygiene methods. When animals are bred, kept in houses, or when cleaning, these infections usually occur. Injuries or disease can emerge. The dog's ceramic dish or a plastic bowl makes feeding much easier. Turtles like to spit water. They suck up the water vigorously and spit out the appropriate part. The "feeding" of aquatic animals will be easier when a bowl is placed in a corner or an opening with suction cups on the side of the tank. The 3-gallon mini bowl will be perfect. For larger turtles, use a "squat" mini-bowl.
2.1. Habitat and Enclosures
The critical aspect of keeping reptiles is taking care of the habitat and selecting a species of captive pet according to our willingness for management. Not all reptiles need the same size of enclosures, and we as pet keepers should research the spatial requirements of the species that we intend to keep. Image: More space may enable a group of reptile keepers to check the exposed part of snakes' vessel road. We should also know the plus-and-minus aspects of the body size liked by reptile keepers. Variants of reptile taxa may need an enclosure of the same size due to their smaller or dwarf varieties, but the larger and stockier species of this taxon. First, let's do research as well as the willingness to allocate space.
The temperature and humidity requirements also differ between species (or types of reptiles), and some rare species require the same habitat even though they are different species. Even some big body species do not eat other strange species or pet lizards as their main feed. A group of species needs the vertical space of the room layout, and almost in a row, the species need growth space. Several publications provide information related to the environmental requirements of reptiles for which we would like to establish enclosures. If the climate and temperature are unsuitable for our target reptiles, the habitat reconstruction must be equipped with space-age technological development (heater and air conditioner), and Olympic drop thermostats clock-consuming selective artifacts between square enclosures.
2.2. Heating and Lighting Equipment
As with any pet, it is important to learn about the animal you plan to keep and provide the necessities it requires in order to thrive. Obviously, getting started requires a secure habitat, but this can vary depending on the species. That being said, the most primary and closely associated requirements for nearly all, if not all, reptilian species, which are not normally explicitly spelled out in care sheets, are access to an external heat source, a light source, and often additional humidity levels.
Most reptiles are ectothermic (cold-blooded) and therefore require heat to maintain their body temperature. Different species have different temperature requirements that must be met. Lighting requirements also vary by species. Lighting should be varied based on the circumstances and space constraints. There are several different heating and lighting tools on the market, and most of them are relatively cheap. It is typical for a heat source to grow warmer before gradually cooling as it approaches the other part of the habitat, whether by conduction, convection, or radiation. Ceramic heat emitters, under-tank heaters, and bulbs are among the heat source options. These are a few. Setting up a combination of these can help keep temperature gradients in check while maintaining a constant ambient heat. Light can also emit warmth and come from a variety of sources. UVB/UVA bulbs can help reptiles in a variety of ways. UVB affects calcium absorption, production, and utilization, as well as overall health. A full-grain jumper may need to have a 10 percent to 12 percent UVB level. LED lights might be used for ambient light, and incandescents can be used for warmth. UVB light should be replaced every 12 months or as recommended by the manufacturer. It could have a result.
2.3. Substrate and Bedding Materials
Every reptile habitat starts with a bottom or floor of some type of material spread inside of an enclosure. This is where a pet lives, moves, and will eat. This is also where some pets will lay their eggs. These substrate and flooring materials can be referred to by several different names. Those names include bits called bedding, liner, papers, and carpet, and many more. Substrate and flooring are more clearly called bedding. Substrates are sometimes called bedding. However, flooring for a reptile habitat is a more general and clear term for these materials. Flooring tells exactly what these products do. A good floor can make a habitat look beautiful while being safer and healthier for a pet.
A choice in flooring has become necessary to help a pet look, feel, and move properly in a protected habitat. Every pet store sells many different types of reptile bedding materials. Each choice comes in many different designs and styles. You are lucky to offer so many bedding options to the wide variety of pets you can keep. These many and varied materials have been created to be safe for our types of pet reptiles. The many types of flooring can also be used to design habitats that look real. However, imitation and simulation are not the same as replication. Remember to think about the needs of a pet before the look of their home. Would they be happier and healthier on something smooth or rough? Cold or warm? Dry or damp?
2.4. Feeding and Watering Accessories
Contrary to feeding, water is much more critical for reptile species and individuals. Different reptiles have different requirements for drinking. Some are great desert inhabitants and obtain the bulk of their water from the food they eat. In many reptiles, proper hydration is vital to their ecological well-being, and maintaining the correct balance of blood plasma and other essential fluids is essential.
It is therefore important to provide clean, fresh water and the right temperature for reptiles. An underwater heater is not needed, as reptiles do not require warm water. However, dirty or contaminated water can lead to various health issues, including infections and diseases. Therefore, it is crucial to regularly clean and replace the water to ensure the reptiles' well-being.
Grazing herps, like iguanas and other folivores, should always have clean water available to keep their intestinal contents soft and promote gut peristalsis during fermentation. Clean water should be available to most omnivorous and insectivorous reptiles at all times. Additionally, any dead insects should be removed promptly to prevent them from becoming a breeding ground for bacteria or attracting pests to the reptile's enclosure.
2.5. Health and Hygiene Supplies
In addition to supplies for their comfort, particularly in environmental control and access to food, health and hygiene supplies are needed to avoid common diseases caused by poor sanitation or interaction with other pets. Feeding these sanitation/health aspects is important no matter how many times a pet is handled - a reptile owner is not as likely to notice an animal not feeding, and a sick pet may be likely to carry disease to its owner. This list provides only a general guideline - bonafide reptile (and/or medicinal) products are available, for example, from commercial pet product supplies - by mail. Full sanitation, health, and treatment information can be found in Carl Franklin and Fred Buchman's "Veterinary Notes for Dog and Cat Owners".
The only way that most veterinarians and animal shelters can detect most diseases is through regular blood tests. In general, a veterinary visit at least once a year should include a fecal test for parasites - though knowing what kind of blood work a veterinarian can perform is best done by using dog and cat professional journals. Vet logs can be used to find practices for most domestic pets - not all vets carry the specific catalogs of a certain species of pet. There are many skin problems that reptiles can get because of these that are not pictured and described separately as swelling, and some that have swelling. Note also that other sides contain many health problems for a reptile. Since most reptile owners build terrariums out of available or used glass aquaria, we need not describe, here, future homes for trash reptiles. Pollution.
3. Popular Reptile Species as Pets
Bearded dragons are a great way to start getting into keeping reptiles. They are very friendly and enjoy being handled. They are also one of the easier reptiles to care for and are known for their big personalities. Leopard geckos are another friendly species that is commonly kept. They are nocturnal (awake at night), so this is a good pet for someone who may not be home much during the day. They are also inexpensive and easy to handle.
Ball pythons likely get their name from their defensive behavior. When scared, they will gather their bodies up into a ball and try to hide their head. Although they do have the ability to strike, they are one of the most passive snakes and prefer to hide their head rather than defend themselves. Corn snakes are known for their nonaggressive temperament and ease of care. They are a good size for a snake, growing to be 3-5 feet long. They come in many colors and are relatively easy to care for. Red-eared sliders make great turtle pets. Although they can live up to 30 years, they are a good size to start with if you are new to turtles. Hatchling red-eared sliders only grow to be 4-6 inches long, so be prepared for them to grow. When fully grown, they can be up to 12 inches long. A full-grown slider can live in a 55-gallon tank. These turtles are very hardy and are often not bothered by small mistakes in care. A red-eared slider has two needs: a good filtration system and a large habitat.
3.1. Bearded Dragons
Creating a habitat for bearded dragons requires a 20-gallon tank with three tempered glass sides and a screen top as the lid. A suitable substrate for this lizard is reptile carpet, sterile and non-allergenic, a liner that can be taken out and cleaned. A ceramic heat emitter (CHE) or an overhead lamp with a reptile UVB bulb will provide the necessary heat and natural light. Consistency is the key when taking care of a bearded dragon. The temperature needs to be 110 to 115 degrees on one side of the habitat and lower around 80 on the other side. The bearded dragon should have some decoration in their habitat, such as rocks, a log, and greenery, that they cannot get stuck in or potentially be an eye hazard. The diet of bearded dragons should be 2-3 times their head size, in greens consisting of 80-90%, 10% being insects, fruits, and veggies. The insects are necessary for protein and play a role in how bearded dragons capture their food in the wild.
Bearded dragons would find their food scurrying across the floor and munching on berries, and just about anything, as they are omnivorous. They also require a constant bowl of fresh, warm water. Make sure they have at least 12 hours under their overhead lamp. Bearded dragons are a very fun, active, and rewarding pet to own. They enjoy new adventures on a daily basis and are even known to eat from their owners' hands. Bearded dragons are also a great pet to raise alongside children. They are very easy to handle because they are gentle and have a great temperament. They are one of a kind. A bearded dragon will definitely be your favorite reptile. The bearded dragon can get a UTI that can be identified by a black beard, excessive females can harm themselves by becoming egg-bound, and when pets are not shedding, they can develop a fungal infection that an owner would notice by excessive crusting over the spines of the tail and dorsal. If the pet is not eating, there can be a cause for lethargy, dehydration or a possible parasite issue.
3.2. Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos are unique animals that are hard to keep in stock and often make up a sizeable part of pet shops' business. A very docile species, they are popular with families as well, who like their tractability. They are easy to house and feed, and maintaining humidity, light, and temperature for them is simple. Several characteristics make leopard geckos a good choice for the beginning herpetoculturist. They are less expensive than other reptiles, and their size allows for a great variety of housing accommodations ranging from small terrariums to large walk-in enclosures.
Cage requirements for leopard geckos are planned out well, as the temperamental behavior is a result of their improper environment. The proper cage setup and size is also dependent on the size and ages of the geckos. Ensure that the product is suited for these reptiles—bear in mind that juvenile and hatchling leopard geckos eat smaller sizes than adult geckos, which eat larger-sized food. Mealworm size for hatchlings and juveniles should be mealworms of large enough size as not to fit into the space in between the leopard's eyes. The family grows their own mealworms at home because they like to know what exactly is going in them, although I have been told that sells food and accessories for leopard geckos. Retickaring and getting rid of debris in the tank is important so as to prevent bacteria in leopard geckos' tanks. Silk plants make great, growable cage coverings and also give the gecko a place to hide. Every leopard gecko has a different personality and reacts to it differently when handled. There is never a death toll on the temperament of a hatchling because a proper upbringing teaches the baby to be responsive and tolerant to being handled.
3.3. Ball Pythons
Ball pythons are large constrictor snakes and are good starter snakes. They are found in the wilds of Western and Central Africa in open forests and grasslands. They are active explorers and are thought of more for display than handling, even though many enjoy allowing them to explore while being handled. They can be a great option for a person living in an apartment or dorm room where something too noisy or requiring too much time is not feasible. They are a nocturnal species, meaning they are more active at night and would not be a playmate right when you get home from work or school.
In the wild, you may find this species in rodent burrows that have been abandoned, and they feed on small animals like mice and rats, as well as birds. Ball pythons are oviparous, or egg-laying snakes. They have those cute tiny heads on tiny necks and silvery iridophores covering their faces, which gives them that iridescent sheen. Males are generally smaller and less stocky than females and have thicker bases to their tails. They are good eaters, and pet owners typically say they have minimal health issues. They are small constrictors and have a very docile nature and will typically try to hide their head from danger rather than strike defensively. Even though they have the 'good pet' traits listed above, snakes are not for everyone. Consider the following traits of a pet reptile for a good view of what is required to be a pet owner of reptiles.
Ball pythons can be found in the wild of West Africa, with a very commonly seen animal in Mali and Ghana. Ball pythons' pattern, while variable, can create some truly stunning patterns that captivate the eyes. While the original coloring of wild-type animals is varied, the most commonly seen are those with a dark background color and then splotches with a lighter swirl inside. Ball pythons need a habitat that is at least 1 foot by 2 feet and allows for a second level with climbing elements such as a branch or series of tree limbs. They also may still find value in a space under this second level that provides cover and comfort above. Pythons can be fed mice one full day a week; they start with tiny pink mice when babies and can get up to jumbo rats at full size, with mature pythons and anacondas needing less food less frequently as their metabolic rate drops with age. Common behavior of ball pythons is to curl into the "ball" shape from where their name comes. They will lay like this when feeling threatened or uncomfortable as an instinct to protect their head.
3.4. Corn Snakes
Corn snakes (Pantherophis guttatus) are one of the most pleasant snakes to work with. They are readily available captive bred and come in thousands of color and pattern combinations. Corn snakes can be a dull grey, an electric red, a bright orange, or even purple and black! They can be either stripeless, striped, amel, diffused, Motley, anery, hypo, paradox, or one of the combo morphs. They are easy to breed, by Python standards, and make great pets. Many snake keepers argue that corn snakes have it all. They exemplify all of the three traits any keeper wants: attractive in color and pattern, great feeders, and very docile. They almost always have a great temperament. The downsides to corn are that they are known for being good at escaping, their thin skin snags on things, and they are fairly busy snakes.
Corn snakes are about the perfect beginner pet snake - even for kids. They are not expensive, come in many morphs, are hardy, easy to care for, easy to handle, and eat properly. An adult corn snake should be housed in an enclosure that is either a 20-gallon tank (18x13x31") or a front opening, wide 40 breeder tank. The length of the tank isn't very important - the height is. The amount of floor space is the most important. It should have a screen top. They do have poor eyesight but they are arboreal to varying degrees. Snake rack tubs should be at least 41 qts. Juveniles can be kept in a tub rack or hatchling rack. The best option begin environmentally enriched cages. They are a longer snake so they need a length not for their body but to fit their limb. Active snakes, as opposed to more sedentary ones, benefit greatly from an environment with more to do. They are not as intolerant to crowding as many snakes and having 12% of their height available for climbing should be great for them, plus a hide. Cork flats or vertical cork rounds cut in half can provide a burrowable covered hide with a top at ground level and top level escape. Furniture and the substrate should be set so thermoregulation is available. Offer fresh water daily in a large bowl. Corn snakes usually drink by dipping their nose and partially entering the water bowl. Toilet paper in the water bowl for calibration is cheaper than a digital thermometer and surprisingly less work to replace. Feed adults once a week, subadults twice. Corn snakes can be fast eaters while young and should start on only one prey then eventually two. I like to provide a thicker, rolled paper towel or bathroom tissue for bedding burrowing in juvenile and subadult tubs and use aspen shavings in adults. I use aspen shavings and coconut husk in display cages. I have also seen bark mix, eco earth, and reptichip with good results. The humidity doesn't need to be high except for shedding. Offer hides of size range variety. Cork, paper flat, precut cup for a dashingly cute hide, a ring cut in half, etc. The Nebraska Herpetological Society handles our corns nearly constantly and unlike other ground snakes, they aren't overly cage defensive. Overly cage defensive behavior is passive and short-lived in them. They chill out, often immediately, once out of their enclosures. They hold on but not stressed or constricted. Small kids enjoy the "Bouncy Snake" nickname when a corn snake wraps around their wrist or arm. Corn snakes enjoy hide, abundant, and safe objects to scale. Courtship, mating, and family life within the inseparable NeHS corn snake exhibit are experiences and sometimes arguments spectators talk about from season to season.
3.5. Red-Eared Sliders
If you want a red-eared slider, there are a couple of things to consider. First, these are known as semi-aquatic turtles. There needs to be a couple of things to consider for a turtle. The first being, what size are you wanting the turtle to get? If it's going to be a turtle that's small, the tank doesn't need to be big but it will need to be big enough for the turtle to swim in. If it's going to be a turtle that gets large, consider if you have room for a big tank and replacement tanks as the current one gets too small.
Second, if a reptile gets cold or hot, they need to be able to go to the other extreme to warm up or cool down. The two turtles that have been in a reptile rescue and have been left to be cared for have their eyes showing just because they were so sick from not being able to cool down. Just know if you can't cool off the tank, you might be harming a turtle. Red-eared sliders are semi-aquatic, so they will need a place to swim and come out of the water to bask. If not, they will start to get sick. Also, with filters, heaters, and proper lighting like UVB, a turtle can thrive in captivity.
A red-eared slider, or even just a slider if you are knowledgeable enough, needs to grow to their size before released into the wild. They are known for being taken captive when they are young. These beautiful turtles are known for their bright red stripes on the side of their heads. They can make amazing pets for someone who's ready to take on these animals. Many turtles are capable of carrying salmonella. With proper care, red-eared sliders often only have to see a veterinarian if they are sick or injured. A turtle that's sick usually doesn't eat or bask. It also will have swollen eyes or sores on its mouth and feet. If a turtle is showing signs, it will need to be given medication for it to heal. Influential in a turtle's overall health is diet. Turtles can eat a variety of turtles, other fish, and meat. In captivity, we have had success with turtle food sticks. Also, if they are not getting bone from their food or they are avoiding some of their food, Tums are a great source of calcium. These could be crushed up or pressed into a turtle's food.
4. Considerations Before Getting a Reptile Pet
The prospect of having a reptile as a pet ranks as a unique experience. Yet, there are some things to consider before bringing this into reality. The choice to have a reptile for a pet goes beyond aesthetic interest. Potential owners who are considering having a reptile should reflect on various aspects of pet keeping. A reptile pet demands a long-term basis. Potential pet keepers should reflect whether they are financially ready for the long-term commitment of pet keeping and if they are interested in taking care of it for a lifetime. Beyond lifestyle issues, ideas about where to position reptiles and its physical and financial demand should be reflected. Creating a strong and unique bond between a potential reptile pet owner is the next thing to consider.
In countries like the United Kingdom and the United States of America, there are certain restrictions. Tortoise, turtles, and some sort of lizard are examples regulating and monitoring the measures that would be put in place for international traders. While there are few rules and regulations regarding the monitoring of reptiles in countries. The most common limitation is that international letting is subject to the procurement of a license. Some domestic limitations on certain species may also be enacted in order to keep them without breaking federal law in some locations. For instance, sometimes certain animals are designated in some states in the US as "harmful species." Therefore, in order to keep these animals, extra permits are still required. The potential pet keeper should bear in mind of these problems. The potential pet keeper must also bear in mind the pet's compatibility with other pets at home. The downside includes a small number of pests for the reptiles and whether or not the reptiles produce health hazards to the household occupants affected by pet allergies.
4.1. Lifestyle and Commitment
One of the first questions that a person should ask themselves before they purchase a reptile is whether you are ready to commit to the reptile's care for its entire life span. For example, a small leopard gecko can live up to 20 years. Once the reptile is adopted, the owner becomes responsible for its care. Although the reptile can be re-homed, it is best to make a good decision before purchasing an animal. Before getting a reptile, the potential new owner must take a look at their lifestyle. Reptiles in general are low-maintenance, but they still require time and dedication for their care. People who can only afford a couple of minutes a day for their pet may want to consider another option.
Although reptiles do not like to be handled, with time they may become used to being touched and held. The more time the owner and its new pet spend with each other, the more likely the reptile will become socialized. Many reptiles will show their dislikes by biting, defecating, or making loud noises with their tails. However, with time and patience, owners may be able to train their pets to not show these behaviors. However, some reptiles are naturally nervous and skittish. Typically, the smaller the reptile, the more nervous they may be. This should be taken into consideration. The smaller the reptile, the faster they may move, which increases the chance of accidentally dropping them. Additionally, small reptiles may be taken hold of more easily by children, increasing the chance of an accident where they may be injured.
4.2. Space and Budget
Space: Very small species are needed for space, which could be kept in terrariums that don't take up too much space. To determine the type of pet for you, you have to decide on the kind of reptile that you like. Different types of reptiles have different space requirements. Large reptiles need lots of space. As a rough guide, you'll need about a square foot of floor space for every six inches of a reptile. That varies by individual, though, and you need to be aware of any specific requirements beyond size that the type of reptile you want might have.
Budget: Another major factor is money, and you need to evaluate it before making any decisions. There are a number of items, such as a tank or home, water dishes, hiding spots, basking areas, heat sources, lighting, and regular meals, that you will need to purchase in order to keep a healthy animal. When making the initial purchase, go to a pet store with a reliable local reputation and get a package of a terrarium device that comes with everything you need. To get a pet, the initial investment is a part of pet ownership, and you need to be prepared. In the same way as a cat or dog, reptiles are not necessarily low-cost pets. In addition to the initial set-up costs, reptiles also need regular food, practical management practices, and veterinary treatment. If anything goes wrong and the ultimate cost of maintaining your reptile will increase, be ready to pay more.
4.3. Legal Regulations and Permits
Many cities, municipalities, and countries have laws or regulations about owning reptiles. We were occasionally afraid to go to reptile or pet fairs in public spaces because these fairs cannot often avoid displaying dangerous animals to an unaware audience. There are always exceptions, but here are a few general interpretations of regulations in various countries and areas of kept animals. We may frighten or confuse our readers who own reptiles if we change some terms by stating that these are not laws and rules; reptiles can be held in most areas, but they must be held in certain ways to be legally acceptable. We do not accept any actual verbal attributions, and you must confirm the information we offer with the agencies involved in your area.
Some reptiles require a permit or license and owner registration in many areas. Australia has separate regulations for each region and sometimes ordinances for each city. The same is true for many island nations such as Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and other Polynesian nations where invasive reptiles could hurt native birds. Some U.S. states have laws requiring the owner of certain reptiles to obtain a license. There are always exceptions, such as species, size, etc. that depend on the law on which you live. Many exotic pet owners believe that these laws do not apply to them but they are easy to track and can outweigh the benefits of keeping the animal. We recommend you start with the reptile officer at your health department's food services facility because restaurant and kitchen health officials usually know about the species risks in your area.
4.4. Compatibility with Other Pets
When pets of a mixed world view (insider and outsiders) are housed inside, they should be allowed to interact as much as possible if the temperament of the animals allows it. The idea is that species can get used to associating with each other in a relatively confined space offered by human habitations, and that a successful coexistence can be extended to other situations. Some introductions may be more successful than others; a few dogs are happy to curl up with bunnies, cats can tolerate small pets like guinea pigs and birds, and many dogs and cats can safely be around reptiles, as long as proper precautions are taken.Many reptiles can learn to live alongside other family pets, but this will require patience and gentle introductions on everyone's part. Your dog or cat and your new reptile will have very little basis for understanding how to behave appropriately with each other. You should not leave your animals outdoors unsupervised (even though it is for a "quick potty break") when you have small pets that live outdoors and need to ensure that secure enclosures keep them safe from escapees and predators. Enclosures need to be strong and have locks in order to keep them secure. This level of protection will also need to be repeated for indoor pets. Leaving cats, rodents, reptiles, or birds unsupervised will cause stress to both sets of pets. Dogs especially require a slow introduction to any small animal due to their innate prey drive. However, it is not a precluding factor when you want to keep several pets differing in their methods of exploration, locomotion, body heat maintenance, and feeding type.
Internal Housing
4.5. Allergies and Health Concerns
Some pets carry hair, fur, feather or dander allergens, or the pet's saliva or dried urine, which can cause an allergic reaction for some people. However, most scientists and doctors agree that having a pet reptile in a terrarium rather than a furry or feathered pet will be less likely to cause allergies.
Taking precautions when cleaning cages, maintaining clean food handling and maintaining good personal hygiene will help prevent most health issues when keeping reptiles. Humans can also potentially pass on diseases to reptiles, such as salmonellosis. Depending on the variety and breed of reptile in your care, you may need snake handling equipment such as a snake hook or prong, a snake bag, a glass snake tube, a snake restraint tube, and other reptile handling tools. Whether you need snake handling equipment will depend on the variety and the scope of your reptile keeping.
Before making a decision about owning a pet reptile, one should consider health concerns, like zoonotic disease where humans could become infected via direct contact between a snake's skin and a human's skin, through water or surfaces in cages touched by pet reptiles. In a review of 40 Japanese children between 2005 and 2009, it was found that most of the Salmonella strains prevalent amongst infected people had been isolated from feeder mice. Pets are not always carriers of zoonotic diseases. Salmonella and Listeria found that snakes have the lowest rate of these bacteria, but reptiles and amphibians were the same, without these strains in combination. While a different study found the opposite, where reptiles and birds carried Salmonella with a rate of over 50% and rates of under 1% for mammals, in the 1980s, the Center for Disease Control also advised the public not to keep reptiles or amphibians due to widespread outbreaks of Salmonella.
5. Conclusion
In this guide, we discussed new, easy-to-use tools for surveying pet trade transactions. The form of these tools - interactive data visualization websites - makes them available to anyone with an internet connection. We also presented the keystroke search method and a way to extract data from intercepted web traffic to further aid anyone interested in examining pet trade in commercial transactions. When asked about the future of the reptile hobby, many respondents were optimistic that reptile keeping will continue to become more mainstream and accepted by society. A few respondents, however, expressed concerns about poor keeper education and called for a return to naturalistic husbandry. The majority of respondents agreed that responsible reptile keeping today is better than it was ten years ago, largely due to an increased interest in captive breeding. All of our respondents mentioned the internet as a positive catalyst for change.
There is a growing trend in snake and reptile husbandry to get back to the basics and find out what the proper means is to take care of a snake or reptile. Things like proper heating and lighting and its importance in the life cycle. Keeping better sanitation and hygiene methods to better ensure the well-being of the animal. As laws and hopefully soon to be established welfare protocols, the more public culture is more likely to accept and take part in the movements regarding the keeping of CGI animals that now up to this many regulated breeds. With 3D printing now starting to be a "thing," I see many companies or private citizens trying to bring products to the market that are very specific not only to the reptiles we keep but built for individual species.
5.1. Summary of Key Points
The most important thing to consider when getting a reptile is the species of reptile to get. There are likely as many preferences for reptiles as there are keepers, but the following reptiles are often recommended by stores and breeders. There is no better place to ask for advice than your pet shops, even if you decide to purchase your friend from another source. A good answer to the question of what to buy at the pet shop is to buy supplies. The minimum for one reptile is a 10-gallon tank with a screen roof, a heat bulb and a UVB bulb, and a cave. A thermometer is a must and is important to keep the bulb at one end and a cave at the other so they can regulate their temperature needs.
Tools and supplies for one reptile may include these normal ones listed, but they may also be used for multiple animals: water bowl, 10-gallon tank, some decorations, alternate sides of the tank tubes for each reptile, the slightly larger reptile cave, and litter. Supplies like the previously mentioned post could either be for delightful recreation, like gel water that most reptiles do not need to drink because they get their hydration from what they eat, or they may be more of a necessity if the reptile requires it for their care, like a heating pad for mountain horned dragons. These items are usually kept in the "other" stock section of the reptiles' homes. These aforementioned tips are just guidelines to follow, and while these guidelines paint a picture of the criteria to meet to successfully keep a reptile, some species may have different care needs. Always follow up with your experts in this field.
5.2. Future Trends in Reptile Keeping
As it is not developed, we can only share with you some trends that might be in demand in the reptile keeping market in the future. These items would be things reptile keepers might be using in 10 years - tools, treatments, or nutritional support that is not apparent to most people at this time in reptile keeping. Researchers and industry members will want to note what they see as possible trends that may be in demand in the future and that would change behavior for keeping pet reptiles. Discuss these future trends in animal welfare science for reptile keeping with your group. Do you think that any of these treatments, tools, or items will change how we keep pet reptiles substantially? What are some things like these that you know of in research now that might be available to pet reptile owners in the next decade?
Some trends for the future in reptile keeping might be technological items like sensor-backed linked appliances, applications to assist with record keeping and managing herp care, or advanced imaging technology to more clearly understand what is happening in a reptile's body for veterinary care. Also, there may be an increase in demand for veterinarians and specialized support staff who know about reptile care. Rather than just veterinarians who are also working on other animals, a network of veterinarians and their support staff with additional training in reptile care, including nutrition, behavior, and endocrinology might be available. Treatments for this segment of animal species might be developed, such as pain relief that doesn't have to be given by injection. (Nevarez, 2021)(van & Simpson2021)(Mancera & Phillips, 2023)(Lillywhite, 2023)(Wood et al., 2023)(Sakich & Tattersall, 2022)(Amadi et al.2021)
References:
Nevarez, J. G., 2021. Blackwell's Five-minute Veterinary Consult: Reptile and Amphibian. [HTML]
van Zanten, T.C. and Simpson, S.C., 2021. Managing the health of captive groups of reptiles and amphibians. Veterinary Clinics: Exotic Animal Practice, 24(3), pp.609-645. [HTML]
Mancera, K. F. & Phillips, C. J. C., 2023. Effects of noise and light. Health and welfare of captive reptiles. [HTML]
Lillywhite, H. B., 2023. Physiology and functional anatomy. Health and welfare of captive reptiles. [HTML]
Wood, M. N., Soltis, J., Sullivan, K. E., & Probst, T., 2023. UV irradiance effects on komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis) vitamin D3, egg production, and behavior: A case study. [HTML]
Sakich, N. B. & Tattersall, G. J., 2022. Regulation of Exposure to Ultraviolet Light in Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) in Relation to Temperature and Scalation Phenotype. Ichthyology & Herpetology. ichthyologyandherpetology.org
Amadi, N., Luiselli, L., Belema, R., Awala Nyiwale, G., Wala, C., Urubia, N. and Meek, R., 2021. From diurnal to nocturnal activity: a case study of night-light niche expansion in Agama agama lizards. Ethology Ecology & Evolution, 33(5), pp.515-527. academia.edu